A
Brief History
The Golan's first human inhabitants arrived on
the plateau some half a million years ago,
probably having migrated from Africa along the
Syrian-African rift. These early people of the
Golan hunted the animals that lived in the vast
swamplands and lakes along the rift. In the Late
Stone Age, as man began perfecting his ability to
fashion tools. groups of people settled In the
areas of the Golan that were rich in flint- the
raw material fer tools.
The dawn of history on the Golan dates back about
8,000 years, to the Chalcolithic period. For
3,000 years of that epoch, a distinct culture of
graziers and farmersInscribed its mark on the
plateau and its cliff edges. The remains of grain
storage facilities, seeds, olive pits, and
lentils in its settlements attest to man's first
major revolution-the development of agriculture.
With it Came manent

Basalt
relief found next
to the synagogue of
Ein Nashut,
depicting
a man raising his
hands
in prayer.
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communities. houses,
villages, towns, and urban organization. But the
farmers and graziers of the Golan were overcome,
about 5,000 years ago, by a wave of nomads that
overran the Golan. Their legacy is comprised of
hundreds of table like graves dotting the open
spaces of the Golan, several massively fortified
corrpounds erected on the most invulnerable
points of the Golan's steep mountain ridges, and
a few enigmas like the Rujum-el-Hiri and
compound, a complex of huge circular concentric
stone fences with openings at certain points and
stone markers at others. The Rujum-el-Hiri and
other "Phantom circles" like it have
been identified as everything from astronomical
observation platforms to religious edifices and
alien contact Points. Whatever they were, those
who constructed them, the denizens of the Golan
in the Bronze Age. vanished about 3,200 yeas ago.

Ruins
of the synagogue
of Katzrin. The
synagogue
is today part of the
Katzrin
Archaeological Park.
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Once the new realms
of the area were founded, the Israelite kingdom
to the west and the various Aramaean kingdoms to
the east, the Golan served as a buffer zone
between these warring rivals.
Sparsely populated, the plateau was the site of
repeated battles between the Israelites and their
adversaries. It was during this period that one
of the cities of refuge in the territory of the
people of Israel was established on the Golan-and
called Golan.
When the eastern Mediterranean and adjacent
inland areas were unified as part of the empire
of Alexander the Great, the
Golan was finally settled in earnest. From the
fourth century BCE, numerous villages with small
fortified structures next to them were erected
all over the Golan. By the time Alexander's heirs
were celebrating their inheritance, large towns
were coming into being, and the subsequent Jewish
commonwealth of the maccabees had reason to
consider the Golan a worthy political objective,
The large Jewish population of the area, together
with the Jewish population of the cities east of
the Jordan, made the Golan a prime target of

Breichat
Mann on Mount
Hermon, a natural
pond that
was utilized by the
Itureans
in the Hellenistic
period as
a water reservoir
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annexation to the
Jewish state. Meanwhile, in the environs of Mount
Hermon and the northern Golan, a nomadic tribe of
Arabs known as the Itureans was developing a
unique mountain culture.
When the Romans conquered the area, putting an
end to the feuding remnants of Alexander's empire
and the Jewish commonwealth, settlement and
construction
on the Golan boomed. Cities like Banias (Caesarea
Philippi), Gamla, Hippos, Gadara, Seleucia, and
Sogane became centers of GrecoRoman culture. By
the time of Jesus, the Jews of the Golan were a
significant fome in the area of his ministry in
the Galilee. Jesus fled Herod Antipas, ruler of
the Galilee, to the Golan.
Here in the Jewish
villages around Caesarea Pfiilippi and the
southern Golan he spent his last days before
making his fateful final journey to Jerusalem.
The widespread messianic fervor of the first
century, animosity between Jews and Gentiles, and
the hardships of Roman taxation together with
economic shifts finally ignited into the Great
Revolt of the Jews against the Romans. Gamla,
Seleucia, and Sogane fortified themselves against
the Romans. At Gamla the defenders put up a
heroic fight against the besieging Roman legions,
but when the lack of a cohesive Jewish force
brought about their inevitable defeat, the city's
inhabitants climbed to the rock spur at the
summit of their town and flung them selves down,
en masse, into the ravine below. Gamla was a
hotbed of the Jewish resistance movement: its
defenders had resolved that they could not live
with enslavement to the Romans.

Nabi
Ya'afuri In the heart
of the Ya'afuri
Valley on
the Golan. The site
is the
tomb of a Druze holy
man
revered throughout
the
Druze villages in
the region.
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When the
Roman Empire became Byzantine, and the state
religion Christianity, the Golan, together with
the rest of the eastern Mediterranean,
flourished. New towns and villages, churches and
synagogues, were built, decorated, and then
redecorated as the times and the styles changed.
It was a time of prosperity for all.
In 636 the Arab armies of the new religion of
Islam defeated the Byzantine frontier troops.
After the conquest, the boundaries between nomad
and settler dissolved as the desert once again
overran the sown land. In 636, the Arabs
vanquished the Byzantine army at the critical
battle of Yarmuk at
Yakuza in the southern Golan, and the entire
region-all the way to northern Syria-fell into
Muslim hands. Gradually, in the absence of the
unifying hand of the Byzantine empire, the local
economy disintegrated. The center of the Muslim
world gravitated over time to Egypt, Damascus,
and then Baghdad, abandoning the areas in between
to neglect. The Golan once again became the
pasture lands of nomads and the arena of
marauding Bedouin tribes.
When the Crusaders conquered the Land of Israel,
the Golan became the border territory between
them and the Muslim emirate of Damascus, The area
soon deteriorated into a no-man's-land, Crusader
and Muslim raiding expeditions attacking its
Bedouins and farmers at random. Both Muslims and
Crusaders erected fortified positions, castles,
and towns along the Golan, which Passed with
every change of fortune from one side to the
other, Banias, located on a
strategic leg of the road from Tyre to Damascus,
was considered the key to the Holy Land by the
Crusaders. Above it, the immense Nimrod's
Fortress became theheadquarters of the secretive
sect of the Hashishiya, members of which were for
hire to carry out the political murders of
Crusader and Muslim leaders. The feared sect's
legacy to the West is the word
"assassin."
Once the Crusaders were vanquished, the Golan
again became a backwater; this time of the
Mameluke empire. New construction was confined to
a few khans (caravansaries) built along the dusty
roads connecting Damascus to Egypt or leading to
the port of Acre.
With the fall of the Mameluke empire to the
Ottomans in 1516, the Golan was rendered even
more remote from the centers of
power. During this time, its sparse population
was mainly Bedouin. In the eighteenth and
nineteenth centuries, Druze from Lebanon and
Syria and Alawites from Lebanon began to
penetrate the plateau, and permanent settlements
reemerged in the nineteenth century when security
conditions in the area began to improve, Towards
the end of the nineteenth century, Circassians,
refugees from Bosnia and the surrounding lands
who were evicted by the Christian forces, were settled in the Golan by
the Ottoman authorities. Arabs from North Africa
also attempted to settle in the area together
with Jews from the Galilee, who built a few
Jewish agricultural villages.
With the fall of the Ottoman empire after the
First World War and the Sykes-Picot Treaty, the
Golan was divided between the British and the
French, the formerapportioned a mandate over the
Land of Israel (then-British Palestine, which
included Jordan) and the latter allocated Syria
and Lebanon as their piece of the Middle East
pie. The borders between the British and French
mandates on the Golan that were drawn up in the
twenties left a number of areas vaguely
undecided. For the Bedouin tribes whose daily
lives straddled the new border and whose goats
grazed indifferently on both sides, the exact
border was a moot point.
The creation of Syria in 1946 signaled the end of
the French mandate, and when the British finally
left Palestine in 1948, the Syrians invaded the
entire Golan. After an unsuccessful attempt in
conjunction with six other Arab states to destroy
Israel at the moment of its inception, the
Syrians transformed the Golan into a fortified
border area-a military zone from which to launch
a second round of offensives against Israel
complete with heavy fortifications, bunkers, and
military camps, Towns and villages for the
families of military personnel were also erected.
Periodically, the Syrians, sitting in their
fortified positions above the Israeli
settlements in the Hula and Jordan valleys,
shelled the Israeli villages below.
In 1965 the Syrians attempted to divert the
sources of the Jordan River through the Golan so
that they would not flow into Israeli territory.
Artillery skirmishes and military attacks broke
out time and again between the Israelis and the
Syrians. In 1967, Syria, Egypt and Jordan
launched another attack on Israel. After a six
day battle, the Arab armies were beaten back by
the Israelis, who also conquered the staging
areas of their attackers. Among them was the
Golan.

A
small household
god with A human
face dating back to
the Chalcolithic
period - over 5,000
years ago. Extensive
settlements from
this
period were found in
the area, especially
near water sources.
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The Syrian villagers of the Golan fled with their
retreating army and only the villagers of the
four Druze villages on Mount Hermon remained in
their homes. After resolving never to negotiate
with Israel and declaring the resolution to an
international audience, the Arabs try to
annihilate Israel Israel once again in 1973, but
are routed This time, the Israelis, advanced
eastwards to take areas of Syria east of the
Golan.
Following their losses, and in view of the fact
that Israeli forces were now within artillery
range from Damascus, the Syrians were compelled
to negotiate a disengagement agreement with
Israel via American mediation. following the
agreement, the Israeli army retreated from the
areas conquered In 1973 and additional areas of
the Golan. Military forces on both sides were
regulated, leaving a minimal number of troops and
tanks, and a UN observer force set in place Since
then, for the last quarter century, the Golan has
been at peace.
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